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The Life And Times Of A Hermetic Menswear Blogger

I was tired.

So tired that I couldn’t even keep my eyes open. Alan Flusser, who sat next to me in the confines of his midtown office, nudged me awake. I reticently opened my eyes to stare back at the two mac book screens in front of me. His to the right. Mine to the left. Sweeping angles and zoom ins of old Esquire scans traversed the monitors. I achingly propped myself up for a few more hours of work, wrapped in some expensive cardigan made of fine cashmere that Alan lent me to fight off the 5 week head cold I had been suffering from. And the kicker? I had to wake up at 5am the next day to do it all over again.

But Mr. Flusser hadn’t taken up all my time. You see, my position at the Custom Shop had been rearranged to a creative one with me at the head of photography and assisting with content building for Alan’s new website. It was a role I gladly took on. Unfortunately, it was only a part time position. To fill my time (and wallet) I took another part time position at a cafe right next door to my apartment. I figured the commute was only a few steps, how bad could it be?

Then they promoted me to manager.

I went for it full steam ahead, finding myself such a natural fit in the food service industry with a great knack at customer service. I also created a new atmosphere through changing the music and instilling in the staff the kind of customer service level you would rarely expect from a New York City cafe. It was, and still is, very hard work but work that I really enjoy doing.

At my peak I was clocking 105 hours a week between the cafe and my work with Alan. I would wake up at 5am, work 6am-3pm at the cafe, run home, shower (if I had time), change clothing, get to Alan’s by 4pm, work until 8 or 9pm, get home by about 10, edit some work, then pass out.

During this time I didn’t know if I was coming or going. I lost a bunch of weight, was smoking too much, and generally did not take care of myself very well. On the one day off I would have I generally slept all day then took my 25 pound laundry bag that was piling up for drop off and pass out again. I didn’t see my friends or loved ones. I hardly had time to even think about clothing for myself. And I completely dropped off the radar in terms of blogging.

Don’t get me wrong, I am not writing these words for any kind of sympathy from my readers (however many of you may even be left) but you could imagine what little interest I had after an 18 hour work day to set up my photography equipment and take photos of myself. Nor did I even want to write about clothing. In fact, I was sick of the whole menswear blogging world. Especially “street style”. Honestly, everything that was being posted on some blogs looked ridiculous to me. Even more ridiculous than runway. So I just stopped and worked my ass off on other things. And let me tell you, working with Alan so much and digging through all those Apparel Arts and old Esquire magazines really boosted my knowledge of what to look for in clothing.

As the months rolled by my work with Alan finally slowed a bit and I’ve gotten back into a more manageable schedule. I’ve also reinvented my wardrobe which has me excited to write a new series of articles for Made To Measure, NY and made a promise to myself to stay a bit more insulated instead of “keeping up with the menswear blogger Jones’s”. Because most of them, honestly, annoy the living shit out of me.

You’ll be hearing a lot more from me this year, albeit sporadically. As I said from the very beginning I do not write this blog in hopes for big money, a “collab” with some up and coming designer, spots in GQ, or anything like that. I write this blog because I like clothing and want to show guys how to do it without busting the bank. So if I drop off again, I apologize. But always know that I will come back to writing for Made To Measure, NY. Sometimes I just need a long ass break to do so.

Welcome back, Cahlo.

P.S.: Did I mention that during my 105 hour a week work schedule I was writing a new album? Yeah…that too.

Brainstorming

I’m prepping stories this morning for 2012. I’m not sleeping anymore. Just kind of napping.

See you soon.

-Dennis

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I’m Only Sleeping

I’ll be back soon. With several updates. I’ve missed you guys very much.

Talk soon,
Dennis

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Introducing Louis Purple, New York

I was introduced to New York’s latest made to measure suit shop through a very polite e-mail some months ago simply asking me to get together to discuss suits from founder Charles Brunold. Hailing from France with a very specific vision of affordable made to measure Charles and his Louis Purple line has been has been on my radar from conception to execution.

It’s been well worth the wait.

When you first step into Louis Purple you are greeted by the affable Charles or one of his compatriots, are offered a coffee and some conversation, and then it’s on to fabrics. The beauty of the initial meeting is just how low key and nonchalant it is. It almost feels as if you are just hanging out with the option of buying a suit. This kind of approach to sales is not only refreshing, but a true rarity in the trendy, high pressure locale of Soho.

Charles Brunold, Founder of Louis Purple

There is a fiercely modern feel to the shop with whispers of Radiohead or Charlotte Gainsbourg emanating from the large computer Charles sits behind whilst you go through the tremendous selection of fabric books that range from unbranded Italian super 120′s ($700 to start) to the higher end Holland & Sherry and Dormeuil collections ($1,100-$1,400). Halfway through your search, an attractive young woman may enter through the front doors, ask for your name, and offer you another coffee. A very nice perk to the entire experience indeed.

Charles is not a tailor, nor does he claim to be, so measurements are taken in the shop then sent through electronic tailor sheets to  his master tailor who resides in France. After close review they are once again forwarded to a French owned and staffed factory in Romania for assembly. Three weeks later your suit arrives and should any alterations need to be done to the piece, Charles has a local New York tailor take care of them within a week or two.

There are other offerings such as fully customizable shirts made from fine cotton (from $129 – $169, Package of 5 shirts for $548) as well as handmade Italian ties ($99), and finely crafted shoes by Doucal’s ($349).

 

The clientele at Louis Purple so far range from young professionals to nightlife promoters looking for a stylish option of suiting without shelling out major coin. To me, this is an advanced entry to made to measure suiting as you are dealing with some pretty fantastic fabrics and construction.

To give Louis Purple a try, please visit:

Louis Purple
323 Lafayette
New York, NY
10012
(212) 219-8559

www.louispurple.com

Summer 2011: Go Hawaiian

I admit straight off the bat that this post may not be for everyone. Some may scoff and scratch their heads at my notions for the Hawaiian shirt to be considered a summer essential. But rather than seeing it as silly or kitsch, I honestly feel it is a timeless piece to have around.

The Hawaiian shirt reminds me of a different time. A time when during those lazy summer barbeques Grandpa would be grilling up some tasty burgers looking right at home in a brightly printed floral shirt that was no doubt made IN Hawaii. There was never a sign of embarrassment or shame on his freshly shaven face because the summer was and always should be the most appropriate time to break out a piece like this.

I was lucky enough to find mine at a Goodwill here in New York for only $3. It was made at Royal Creations in Hawaii and I wore it for a recent barbeque on my rooftop and just like Grandpa, I was more than comfortable grilling and mingling in my Hawaiian based get up. It certainly makes more of a statement than a polo or a t-shirt and it looks more imaginative than a plain button up.

One of my guests gave possibly the best compliment I could have received when she stated: “You know, with the tattoos, that shirt, your hat, and shorts you look like someone straight out of the World War II era.”

Flattered is an understatement.

Some tips:

1) Stick with a classic looking piece. Preferably one with flowers all over it. Avoid things like flaming guitars. That’s just dumb.

2) Do your best to get one that is fitted but not tight. You don’t want to be swimming (no pun there) in it and you don’t want it to be so close to your body that you can’t wear it comfortably in the heat.

3) Pair it with shorts that compliment one of the more muted colors in the pattern. For example, I pair my own with a pair of blue shorts to compliment the blue in the shirt.

4) Look for a vintage one like my own. They just don’t make them like these anymore.

Out of all the “classics” to make a come back in menswear I really hope this one catches on. Not only because it screams summer, but Grandpa would have been damn proud.

What Alan Flusser Packed In 1983

One of the many perks of working with Mr. Flusser is that I come across very unique and interesting archive material. Case in point the photo below from the Japanese magazine Brutus originally published in 1983. What I love about it is how timeless the wardrobe is. You see nothing embarrassingly outdated, just good taste all around.

In essence this is what I’ve been attempting to pull off with my own wardrobe (albeit from a less costly point) and through the musings on this space. We all owe it to ourselves as grown men to have a timeless wardrobe that will outlive ourselves.

I have more posts coming soon including reviews, outfits, the most expensive shoes I ever purchased, and some brand new videos.

Stay tuned.

Courtesy Brutus Magazine, Japan

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