Well boys, we are reaching the end of winter and while it’s still colder than a witches teet out there, I really love the style that winter brings. I’m such a sucker for a hearty wool, thick boot, and a driver’s cap. So towards the end of my favorite dressing season, I like to go with my trusted Imparali 3 piece around the office as it offers a great look with a jacket:
Made to Measure Suit: Imparali $500, Custom Shirt: Indochino $99, Tie: Vintage YSL: $1, Hat: $10, Glasses: Ray Ban $160
And without:
Since you are all so big on taking my photos and calling me terrible looking, here’s a photo you can post on your next thread about my blog:
BTW, to the reader who goes under this profile on Style Forum: http://www.styleforum.net/member.php?u=72243 stop using my photos and post ones of yourself.
If you have a question or comments why not do the right thing and keep them here, or e-mail me directly?
Indochino has upped their game so much since I discovered them a year ago it’s scary. They went from producing really nicely made custom suits with decent fabrics to making amazing custom pieces out of really, really nice fabric.
Let’s take their Purple Pinstripe suit as an example. When I spoke to them about creating a bolder suit rather than the usual two button numbers I usually go for we thought this was a great choice. I don’t know exactly what thread count the fabric is but it is soft and lush, definitely not stiff. It flows gently and is very comfortable on the body. For the button choice, I chose only ONE for the suit. I wanted a one button suit in my wardrobe since all have two. The fit on this is what really shines through, though.
There are some really wonderful touches on this suit as well. Each button hole is outlined in a lighter purple than the suit itself making the functional button holes really something to look at:
You get to choose the lining color as well and I went for the standard dark purple on the inside which matches my purple H&M pocket square perfectly. Of course, I had to add my very own MADE TO MEASURE, NY monogramming as well.
Unfortunately this suit is no longer available but I’m sure you can find something comparable through them. What I really am trying to show through this post is just how creative you can get with a custom piece. I also feel that a subtle colored suit like this purple number adds a nice bit of kick to your day to day suit wearing. It’s bold but not brazen with nice little details that will surely get noticed.
Suit: Lands' End, Shirt + Cufflinks: Indochino, Pocket Square: Perry Ellis, Shoes: H&M
When I think of the original ALFIE I think swinging London and slim cut Saville Row suits. For this look I put together what I think would have definitely been part of Alfie’s sartorial rotation. Grey pinstripe slim tailored suit, white french cuff shirt with silver cufflinks, white pocket square, no tie, and some brown shoes.
This is a very simple yet effective piece that works on any man. Even if you’re not as promiscuous as Alfie was.
Suit: Indochino, Shirt: Indochino, Tie: H&M, Cufflinks: Vintage, Shoes: Via Spiga
The key to the Get Carter look is to keep it totally simple. Caine exudes minimalist elegance with a sharp fitting 3 piece suit in navy blue and a shiny pair of black shoes/boots.
For the shirt, go for a light blue to contrast a bold dark blue tie. The pictured tie is thin but a thicker option is preferable. Go without a pocket square and for the hardware keep it simple as well. A silver chronograph will complete your Carter look to perfection.
The first time I saw the film GET CARTER was on a rainy afternoon sometime in early 2000. During this time, I fancied myself a bit of a mod and loved to soak up anything and everything British and/or Swinging London.
Enter Sir Michael Caine as the hard boiled Jack Carter who is out for revenge and drenched in style.
It was because of this movie that I started to look up to young Michael Caine as a non stop shop of style inspiration.It’s not so much what he wears but how he has it tailored. Everything always fit him incredibly well. Take, for instance, this screen shot from GET CARTER. His navy 3 piece suit is just impeccably fitted with just the right amount of cuff peaking out from the sleeves. Throughout the film he wears it just like Cary Grant wears his sartorial masterpiece in North By Northwest:
Maybe it is the inherent sense of English tailoring that seeps into the sartorial mind of most British men or maybe it’s just the simple fact that Michael Caine knew how to dress, but one thing is for sure:
Young Micahel Caine is a sartorial force to be reckoned with.
Over the next few days I will put together some options so that you too raise a little bit of Caine where ever you may go.
Do you even know how much I owe Paul Bernie who runs Manshion?
No, I am in no kind of gambling debt with him, but rather indebted for providing me inspiration to start Made To Measure and for his consistently amazing and affordable finds at places you would never think of looking.
One of his most recent is from Lands’ End (yes, the brand you find at Kmart) called the Tailored Suit Collection. I was so weary at first but after he posted photos I had to dive in. I dropped $150 + shipping and when it arrived I took it straight out of the box and it fit like a CHARM. Made of lightweight and 100% wrinkle free merino wool, this charcoal pinstripe piece completed my entire wardrobe as I now have every “essential” suit.
Let me get into what $150 can get you by first showing you how EXCELLENT it is cut. Medium lapels, pinched waist, slim cut but not too tight pants. Way better quality than an H&M number:
The only thing I had Matt at Imparali do was move the top button on the blazer over to bring the sides in a bit. Other than that, I see no need for extra tailoring on this. I MAY have the legs tapered a little more but I think they are fine right now. Anymore may prove to be sausage tight. I absolutely love he little details they added as well. First off, the buttons are nice. Not cheap looking like most OTR suits. And a ticket pocket? They got you covered.
When you get to the inside of the jacket they give you 4 pockets in total which is a VERY nice touch considering most OTR suits just offer you two.
There’s a really nice blue and white striped interlining on the inside of the jacket sleeves as well. Lands’ End also offers a hemming service on the pants which I chose and had my pants hemmed at 31.25 giving them the PERFECT break.
What I love most about the suit is that everything falls really well on the body and there’s no pulling or sagging. The merino wool proves to be very comfortable and made from excellent stock (feels like super 120) making this suit a fantastic buy all around.
You can purchase your own here:
Lands’ End Tailored Collection
As for the measurements I chose, here they are:
Jacket: 38R
Pants: 33 waist, 31.25 inseam.
Trust me on this one. You will love it.
Suit: Indochino, Shirt: Banana Republic, Tie: YSL
Oh how I love my navy suits. I can own a boat load and never have enough. Just like the classic charcoal, this is another fantastic blank slate to work with.
For this outfit I went with a gingham shirt, orange tie, and (in my hand) brown shoes, and a brown belt.
I would go with this combination for a day at the office, dinner with the lady, or even a night out.
Navy just works…for almost every occasion.
Suit: Indochino, Shirt: Indochino, Tie: H&M
If you are going to buy one suit this year, go for a navy pinstripe in a slim cut. It’s extremely versatile and you can wear it with black or brown shoes, stripe or solid ties, and plain or patterned shirts.
Pictured is a lilac striped shirt with a purple striped tie which I think most might find a bit much but I say…it’s 2010.
Go for it.
Suit: Indochino, Shirt: Indochino, Tie: Dunhill, Pocket Square: H&M
What I love most about a charcoal suit is what a great blank slate it is. Where most will go with a white shirt and black or blue tie, I’m choosing to go with bright colors to make the entire outfit blow up in your face.
The colors I chose are red and purple because against the gray they really pop.
This year, try something like this with one of your more subtle suits. I’m sure you will turn some heads.
Suit: Imparali, Shirt: H&M, Tie: Indochino
Welcome to Monday, boys. I hope you all enjoyed an amazingly restful (or for you weekend warriors, not so restful) weekend.
For today I put together a somewhat sober piece that goes bold in the patterns. There’s also a complete absence of pocket square. Am I over the square?
Hell no.
I love me some crisp white, pattern or silk solid poking out of my jacket pocket. This suit just look more stream lined and perfectly uniform without it. Just like composing music, it’s not so much the notes you put into a piece but than the ones you choose to leave out that make it work.
Reintroducing the classics we all love, Indochino has a brand new collection for 2010!
Suit + Pocket Square: H&M, Shirt + Tie: Indochino, Gloves: H&M, Jacket: Patrizia Pepe, Watch: Burberry, Briefcase: Coach, Glasses: Ray Ban, Hat: Cato's Army Navy
In 2009 I was so happy to see men taking notice of their tailoring after the advent of the Mad Men craze as well as slimmer silhouettes coming into play. The only drawback I observed was that very little risk was taken. We all seemed to stick to understated looks which, in essence, is amazingly classic and works at every turn but I felt that my own wardrobe choices were missing something:
BALLS.
And what is making a statement without a giant set of sartorial cojones? This year, I am choosing to go bold.
Big glasses, heavy patterns, nothing too matchy…a subtle shift in what I was building in 2009. I will, by no means, be wearing man skirts, but I will be pushing my own limits in terms of pattern mixtures and accessories.
One of my first moves was to purchase an over sized pair of Ray Ban wayfarers.
I love basing outfit choices around these glasses because the bolder you go with the outfit, the more they stand out.
Welcome to 2010, boys. The year we get our balls back.
Shoes are often the last thing I thought about but found them to be the most important part of rounding the edge of a perfect wardrobe. Since shoe shopping can be a really daunting task, I will make it very simple for you.
The Necessities:
All you really need is what you see above. One pair of winter boots (Guess, $69.99), one pair of brown shoes (H&M, $59.99), and one pair of black cap toe oxfords (DKNY, $25.00). Honestly, this is all you will ever need. All the rest is fluff.
I do, however, love me some fluff.
The Fluff
Boots. They can be rugged and manly, or sharp and dandy. Either way, I like to have two pair in my closet: one pair black (Via Spiga $69.99), and one pair light brown (Daffy’s $59.99). These are really good because both go with jeans and suits really well.
The Shoe Tool
My use of the blasphemous plastic shoe tree will no doubt be poo-pooed by most but I find the $45.00 cedar pairs a little out of my budget but the plastic shoe trees do the job pretty well at $5.99. These are really important for keeping your shoes wrinkle free and looking new.
The Shoe Shine Kit
This is something I actually need to get together this year. My father, an Italian immigrant, first earned his living in the States by shining shoes for a nickle. That grand tradition carried on and he, to this day, has a leather bound pouch filled with all the equipment needed for a proper shoe shine. I highly recommend a DIY shoe shine because it saves you money and is actually a fun little chore to do once or twice a week.
If you don’t know where the name of this blog post came from, please enjoy the following educational video:
Tuxedo by Indochino
Gather round, boys and I shall tell you a tale. A tale of a young co worker who was in desperate need of a tuxedo when he realized he had nothing to wear to a full on black tie event being hosted by one of our biggest clients. Of course, this young man came to me and, thankfully, his frame fit the tuxedo my father had given me. At the event, he was a shining star and everyone took notice.
Let me say that his original intent was to wear a black suit with sneakers. I cannot begin to tell you just how wrong this was for a full on black tie event. Luckily I was there to help him out. But what if I wasn’t? What if he HAD gone with the original plan? I shudder at the thought.
In 2009, I bought a tuxedo from Indochino. It was a whopping $299, cut beautifully, and made from high quality fabrics. I never had any use for a tuxedo before but I thought to myself since I have all these suits, why not make an investment in a tux? I felt like I really should have one for a “just in case” moment such as the example above.
In 2010, you should consider a custom made or off the rack tuxedo (think Ralph Lauren, not Men’s Warehouse) because rented tux’s almost always look like shit. Seriously. They do.
You also never know when you are going to be presented with that invitation to a black tie event.
And since we don’t work together, I won’t be able to loan you one of mine.
Indochino Custom Dress Shirts - 3 for $199
The white shirt is the cornerstone of every man’s wardrobe. So in 2009, I bought plenty from Indochino. They are well cut, made from top material, and shrink to perfection. I cannot tell you just how important and essential white shirts are. They can go with most anything and always present a clean, finished look to your suits or jeans.
I prefer french cuffs on mine as well as standard pointed collars. Once in a while I will chose a spread collar but almost always go for the french cuff/point combination.
You should have AT LEAST 3 white shirts in your wardrobe and they should fit trim to the body. F0r your first three go for one with French Cuffs, one with an Oxford Collar, and one standard barrel cuff with a spread collar. That way you will always have a choice.
I go with custom made for my own shirts and HIGHLY recommend you do too, but you can find comparable brands like Brooks Brothers and even the Merona brand at Target. Just make sure the sleeves are long enough. Almost 80% of the time men don’t realize their shirts are too short on the sleeves.
Take care of your shirts with minimal dry cleaning, wash and press at the cleaners, or if you have access to your own washer dryer keep them going with cold water washes on the gentle cycle. Finish them off with a light drying and a steam iron.
Trust me, you’ll be very happy when you see those pearly whites staring back at you from your shirt collection.
Rice Pin Stripe Suit (From Daffy's $139), H&M Gingham Shirt ($39), H&M Tie ($20)
This question had to be answered as this blog was as much an experiment in bank as it was style.
In 2009 I formed my own company. This extra income plus my day job’s steady check started to bring in more money than I ever made before. A huge chunk was used to pay off all my debt, buy equipment for the company, and put aside enough to revamp my wardrobe throughout the year. As I flipped through GQ for style inspiration I decided I would, for the cost of just one of the higher end suits they feature, build an entire wardrobe. Amazingly enough, this dream became a reality.
I cannot say I have not received discounts and freebies from some of the menswear outlets that have been featured on this blog but even without the freebies I managed to build a lot of my wardrobe on my own and with my own money.
The cost for my entire wardrobe including tailoring, shoes, shirts, hats, etc. came out to about $5,000. Now this may seem like a lot but we are talking an ENTIRE wardrobe here. That is almost exactly the amount of a PRADA suit I saw showcased in last year’s GQ.
The point of this is that maybe you do not want or even need as much as I did but you can certainly set aside $1,000 from a bonus or savings, take it, and invest in some nice custom shirts, a suit, jeans, and some shoes. I showed you through out 2009 how you can do it.
In 2010, step up your game and go for it. It’s worth the money.
I know I promised I would be back in full force this week but I may be going out of town for New Years. This means all of the Year In Review posts are probably going to come a little later than expected.
I did, however, want to get in an outfit idea before I left so here it is…the weekend winter getaway. You can always sub the shoes with boots if its snowing. And for the coat, I would go with a slim cut Pea Coat all the way.
Enjoy the rest of your holidays and I will definitely be back in 2010!
Hat: Cato's Army Navy, Sweater: H&M ($34.00), Belt: Urban Outfitters, Watch: Burberry, Shoes: H&M - $59.95, Jeans: Uniqlo - $29.99
Wishing you and yours Happy Holidays from Made To Measure!!
I’ll be returing to regular updates next week. For now, enjoy the archives and this great picture of Moe Cahlo getting in ye old holiday spirit.
