The Perfect Fitting Suit, Part 1 – By Kyle Vucko

Part 1: The Suit Jacket

As has been said in many places in the world of men’s wear literature, including this blog, fit far outweighs anything else in terms of how one looks in a suit. Looking like a million bucks has very little to do with how much you actually paid for it. With this in mind, whether shopping for your next suit at the bargain basement or Boss, the following tips will ensure the final product looks great:

Watch the Shoulders: If you decide to go with off the rack, the most important thing to get right is the fit of the shoulders. They should follow the natural lines of your shoulders with little to no need for alteration. If this part of a suit jacket fits, the rest of the suit should fall into place with only minor adjustments.

Chest and Torso: Regardless of your body type, ideally you want the suit to follow your natural curves. On the slimmer side is definitely the trend right now; however, it is important to realize that you may find some of your movements restricted if you go with that style. You usually can adjust a suit up to one inch bigger and two inches slimmer through the chest and torso area.

Jacket length: Generally speaking, the shorter it is, the trendier. Rule of thumb says the suit should fall to the tip of the thumb, but can go to as short as the bottom of your belt line if that is the look you are going for. A suit jacket can usually be adjusted up to 3 inches shorter before the suit starts to look a bit off, it has no ability to go longer.

Jacket Sleeves: You generally want to show .25 inches of shirt cuff when your arms are at your side. Keep in mind though that this will lead to as much as 1 inch showing if you are moving your hands well in front of you. slimness of the suit through the torso will dictate how much your sleeves are restricted.

To nail each of these four points, you will need a good alterations tailor. Working closely with one is key to creating your ideal fit and look. The key is listening and using their advice; after working with thousands of men in suits, their advice is usually spot on. And while you may find yourself paying as much as $100+ to make all the necessary changes, it is well worth the final perfect look that is created.

-Kyle Vucko, CEO Indochino