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Archive for August, 2009

Aug 21

4 Comments

The Illustrated Man

I would like to veer off the topic of menswear for a post and talk tattoos with you. As you may or may not know I am a tattoo addict. My first was when I was 18 and they just kept getting bigger and bigger since. My goal is to have full sleeves in the next 2 years.

I have gotten two in the last two weeks one on my right arm by Bob Wicks (who’s work I will use to complete the entire arm) and on the left a Geisha pinup. In the photo it’s a bit shiny due to the ointment.

I’m excited to share these with you because I firmly believe that tattoos have as much a place in the world of fashion and style as a well fitted suit. They are pieces of art that adorn our bodies, tell stories, and on occasion become the topic of great debate.

Below is a shot of my progress. I’m close to my goal but there’s still a lot of space to fill.

IllustratedMan

Aug 20

Alterations VS. Tailoring – By Scott Mesorana

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As a Cat’lic school boy I remember having a new uniform to look awkward in each and every September. This memory culminates in the yearly ritual of standing still for roughly sixteen and a half hours while my mother hemmed my pants. She’d always do a fine job and smile throughout…until I’d ask if she could do something about the yard of extra pants around my knees and calves. At that point my dear mother would explain that when I was old enough to pay for it my (G-d damned) self I could go and get my pants to look however I wanted them to look…like my dad does.

This never left my mind, and when I was old enough to pay for it myself I immediately went out and sought this magician who would abra-cadabra my trousers into Scott size. The sign reading “alterations” was my first beacon of hope. After spending way too much money and experiencing countless disappointments I came to suspect that the lady I was paying for my alterations was someone else’s mom. The only difference being that my mom did it for free.

What I found I needed was a tailor.

It took me quite some time to realize the difference between tailoring and alterations. And as embarassing as it is to say that now, it’s a lesson I never forgot.

You don’t call a house painter when you decide it’s time to build a house. Is the house painter’s job appreciated? Of course! But his job involves making enhancements or alterations to an already built structure. You call a builder. The builder then works with you and stays as close to your specifications and desires as possible.

Consider the phrase, “tailor made”. A tailor makes things. Those things can be altered…but only after they’re made.

The main difference with tailoring is the buyer’s total control over the fabric used, the features and fit, and the way the buyer wants the garment to be made. It speaks to a high degree of customization, and involvement of the user/wearer, in the production of the garment. From start to finish, it’s a project that you and your tailor are engaged in involving measurement and fitting.

Alterations can and at times need to be made…but only after the project, your garment, is complete. Again, you cannot alter something that doesn’t yet exist.

Gentlemen, don’t be that clueless Cat’lic school kid with the ankle-length, baggy pants. Be the man who knows what he WANTS to look like you’ll find that the tailor can and will dress you like that man.

Aug 19

5 Comments

The Alexander West Experience – Part 2

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Christmas comes but once a year yet with custom clothing it feels like Christmas all the time. Although the man bringing the presents usually asks for your signature upon arrival.

My first Alexander West shirt arrived at my place of occupation on a Monday and I tore into the box with glee. Inside was not only my shirt exquisitely packaged in an Alexander West branded plastic shirt box, but also a letter with proper care instruction, and a set of brushed metal collar stays.

But packaging is only part of the equation. Fit, finish, and fabric quality was next on the list all of which score high points.

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The high fabric count (145) makes this tuxedo shirt so beautiful to the touch. The cuffs are french rounded to perfection as well as the ultra stiff collar which should soften in a few washes. Note: I actually LOVE the stiffness of the collar and cuffs. It makes me feel like I am wearing something of great quality. All the buttons are tightly sewn and there was not a stray thread throughout.

Once I put it on I had a full realization of just how good the fit is. Every part hugged my body perfectly and there was no need at all for tailoring. The cuffs fit around my formal watch with no issues. There was no pulling or ill fit anywhere to be found.

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As first experiences go, I am very pleased with the quality and service that Alexander West offers. I urge my readers to purchase at least one shirt from them.

Even if it’s the one custom shirt you own, you will be happy you do.

To order online:

www.alexander-west.com

To order in person:

(866) 647-1740

NY SOHO SHOWROOM (*By Appointment Only*) (one block away from SoHo Apple Store) 110 Greene, Suite 404 New York, NY 10012

NY TRIBECA SHOWROOM (*By Appointment Only*)
12 Desbrosses New York, NY 10013

Aug 18

1 Comment

The Alexander West Experience – Part 1

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My ever expanding knowledge and education of custom shirt makers has grown more after my introduction to Alexander West. Being approached by Alexander Yoo, owner and founder, to have a custom shirt of my choice made did not only prove to help me better understand the process and traditions of shirt making, but it also proved to be an all around incredible experience.

When I used to buy off the rack shirts, there was immediate gratification. After the shirt deteriorated or started to fit quite poorly after only a few washes that gratification soon turned into frustration. Enter the custom shirt process where, yes, you pay quite a bit more up front but you end up owning a shirt longer than the average off the rack with a better fit and all the trimmings of your choice.

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One of the two Alexander West showrooms in Manhattan is located in a beautifully modern Soho loft space on Greene Street. There you get to sift through some lovely Thomas Mason, Alumo and Sea Island, Cotton, and Linen fabrics as well as get measured (by appointment only). But the wonderful part about Alexander West is that the shirts are not just available to New Yorkers. The entire process can be done online  and delivered right to your door where ever you may live.

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Although going through the process of picking out your fabrics and trimmings may seem a daunting task, the experience that Alexander Yoo provides during the process helps to speed it along greatly. When I went in for my fitting and fabric choice, I was stumped with all the options. After mentioning to Alex that I had just purchased a tuxedo, he suggested a beautifully traditional  shirt to wear with it. He works very well with what you feel comfortable with and not from an opinionated stand point which was also very refreshing. For example, I knew what collar worked for me and he agreed rather than push what he felt was “correct”. I feel this an imperative when dealing with a customer.

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After completion of fabric choice, collar, cuffs, monogramming, and measurements it takes a few weeks (2-3) for your shirt to arrive by UPS and you are alerted by e-mail with all the tracking information. Customer service at Alexander West is really a 10 out of 10 as they are very quick to respond to any questions you may have during the process*.

*Editors Note: Alexander West will be implementing a new online tracking system soon that brings you through the entire progress of your shirt week by week.

AWShirts

Stay tuned for the results in Part 2 tomorrow.

To order online go to:

www.alexander-west.com

Pricing is as follows:

1. Cotton fabrics $105 to $120

2. Linen $150

3. Thomas Mason Fabrics $150 (limited selection on Internet)

4. Alumo and Sea Island $175 to $200 (In NY showrooms only)

5. Tuxedo Shirts $175

Alexander West has two locations in Manhattan:

(866) 647-1740

NY SOHO SHOWROOM (*By Appointment Only*) (one block away from SoHo Apple Store) 110 Greene, Suite 404 New York, NY 10012

NY TRIBECA SHOWROOM (*By Appointment Only*)
12 Desbrosses
New York, NY 10013


Aug 17

6 Comments

Fall Suiting

I don’t know about you guys but I can’t wait until the summer is over. It’s not that I don’t enjoy days spent in the sun and nights at Coney Island, but I find summer clothing a bit boring. I am not as hardcore as most and refuse to sweat through my suits for the sake of wearing one which is why I started to anticipate what to put together for some fall color combinations and styles.

One thing I will be investing in are new shoes. Stay tuned for that venture soon.

Here are some color combinations I will be favoring this season:

Indochino Suit: $300, Indochino Shirt: 3 for $199, Tie $1 @ Salvation Army, Pocket Suare JC Penney $15 for a box

Indochino Suit: $300, Indochino Shirt: 3 for $199, Tie $1 @ Salvation Army, Pocket Square JC Penney $15 for a box

Indochino Suit: $450, Imparali Custom Shirt: $70, Vintage Tie: $1, Pocket Square JC Penney

Indochino Suit: $450, Imparali Custom Shirt: $70, Vintage Tie: $1, Pocket Square JC Penney

Indochino Three Piece Suit: $379, Indochino Shirt: 3 for $199, Tie by Brookes Brothers, Pocket Suare JC Penney: $8

Indochino Three Piece Suit: $379, Indochino Shirt: 3 for $199, Tie by Brooks Brothers, Pocket Square JC Penney: $8

Aug 14

Built To Last: Fred Perry Polos

The weather here in NYC has reached disgustingly high and humid temperatures which means it’s the right time to don shorter sleeves and more breathable fabrics.

After enlisting my good friend Scott as a contributor to the blog, his penchant for mod clothing got me thinking about how long my Fred Perry maroon polo has lasted. It’s going on a good 6 years now and it hasn’t even lost it’s shape. In fact, it looks much better than it did when I first got it. Shrunk to fit and hardly faded.

Made To Measure fully endorses the Fred Perry polo. You may spend a good $60 up front, but according to my shirt’s life span that’s only $10 a year.

www.fredperry.com

www.fredperry.com

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