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Archive for December, 2009

Putting It All Together: Winter Weekend Getaway

I know I promised I would be back in full force this week but I may be going out of town for New Years. This means all of the Year In Review posts are probably going to come a little later than expected.

I did, however, want to get in an outfit idea before I left so here it is…the weekend winter getaway. You can always sub the shoes with boots if its snowing. And for the coat, I would go with a slim cut Pea Coat all the way.

Enjoy the rest of your holidays and I will definitely be back in 2010!

Hat: Cato's Army Navy, Sweater: H&M ($34.00), Belt: Urban Outfitters, Watch: Burberry, Shoes: H&M - $59.95, Jeans: Uniqlo - $29.99

Happy Holidays From Made To Measure!

Wishing you and yours Happy Holidays from Made To Measure!!

I’ll be returing to regular updates next week. For now, enjoy the archives and this great picture of Moe Cahlo getting in ye old holiday spirit.

Year In Review 2009: Imparali Custom Tailors, NYC

What better way to start this week with the giant bang that is my full custom suit from Imparali Tailors.

I was in such desperate need of a great custom tailor this year and I had gone through an absolute nightmare trying to find one. But through the magic of the internet, proximity to my place of employment, and one panicked phone call, I met Matt Harpanali of Imparali Custom Tailors. He was gracious enough to fix a suit from Indochino that was a little too roomy for me and that is where the magic began. We started to talk shop about tailoring, my blog, his history in the business, and became good friends as well as collaborators through our frequent meetings. Matt takes on all my crazy requests and e-bay finds with the same enthusiasm as myself and it’s great to know there is someone in my age group who sees the full benefits of custom tailoring.

The greatest thing about Matt is that he listens to you when you ask for particulars. He’s really good at finding what you want for a piece. For example, on this suit he made for me I wanted a very specific collar type and he would not rest until he found the exact one for me in one of his many tailoring books and magazines. You just don’t get that kind of service from a department store.

Now onto the suit itself.

Matt and I were in discussion about this for quite some time. I knew I wanted a classic gray check so I chose a fabric with a hint of blue in it’s glen check. It is a medium weight wool more ideal for the cooler months:

For the collar I wanted what is known as an English hunting collar that I found on a suit in a Ralph Lauren suit:

For the interlining I tried to match the blue of the stripe as best I could:

For the jacket sleeves I chose functioning button holes as well as a blue thread that matches the interlining on the first button hole:

The vest was really fun because I matched the back of the vest with the same color as the interlining:

FInally, the pants were given side tabs with no belt loops:

And now, here is the suit as a three piece:

And here it is as a two piece:

First off, let me just say that this is, by far, THE BEST fitting suit in my wardrobe and that one of the greatest things I have learned through the custom process is just how much fun it is to build your own suit. It is an experience every man and young man should have in his lifetime. The joy of slipping on something so wearable, comfortable, and stylish that you helped to create is a feeling like no other.

Matt will charge you $500 for the two piece and around $600 for the three piece in this material with all the customization you want. Plus all alterations are done at no charge.

This is a service and price that you just cannot get from an off the rack store. The suit ends up fitting better and you controlled every aspect of its creation and fit.

You cannot beat that in the long run.

Extra special thanks to Matt Harpanali and Imparali Tailors for making 2009 the year Made To Measure found it’s favorite tailor.

Year In Review 2009: Best Suit For Under $200

This was the year to really search for style on a budget. I found that if you need something in a pinch, H&M has you covered hands down.

Say you have a black tie affair but don’t own a tux and don’t have time to rent or order a made to measure online. H&M has them now. Plus the shirt, shoes, and tie, and pocket square to top it all off. And you will come in way under $500. It’s not the kind of piece you hand down to your son, but it’s one that will get you through a years worth of black tie events and wow your friends on New Years Eve.

Their “high end” suits run about $250 and then there are the put together suits that come in under $200 (usually $150-$170). As my regular readers know, I found a fantastic gray 3 piece suit there for $150 and it’s a suit I get the most compliments on out of the many in my wardrobe. These are not the best made suits by far. But you really can’t go wrong having one of them in your closet.

Year In Review: Favorite Suit Of 2009

I never owned a fail proof, go to suit before this year. I always rotate, rotate, rotate until I have the spins.

It is with no surprise that my favorite suit of 2009 came from my brethren over at INDOCHINO in the form of the NAVY PERFORMANCE SUIT. This suit was my first purchase using their full customization offer and I have to say it is by far my favorite suit purchase of 2009.

Why? Because it is versatile, masculine, and fool proof as all hell. The blazer can be worn as a separate as well as the pants. It can be done up for work, a dinner with the lady, or a night out. This is my North By Northwest power suit.

I even went for classic trimmings all around so it will never look dated…even when I am.

Year In Review: Best Menswear Pocket Guide

Part of my journey this year in menswear was collecting some books on the subject that made for great reference tools as well as excellent sources for styling tips. While they do fall into the “rules” quite a bit, I find that having one with me at all times in invaluable. Most of the books out there are very large and cannot easily fit into an every day attache, gym, or messenger bag. After some research I happened uponĀ  A Well-Dressed Gentleman’s Pocket Guide by Oscar Lenius. While not extremely rich in imagery it is an excellent source for on the go menswear reference. Even if you go shopping or to your tailor once in a while, this is a great book to have with you.

You can buy it here.

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