Focus On: Katie Wintrode, Fifth And Brannan
San Francisco based Katie Wintrode’s Twitter feed and blog often let us in on just how busy she is designing, cutting, and executing her upcoming menswear line FIFTH AND BRANNAN. From fabrics to pattern cutting, Katie is putting her work out there for all to see from the ground up.
I got the lucky chance to pick her brain about life, inspiration, and the forgotten art of menswear.
MADE TO MEASURE:
Good morning, Katie. How is San Francisco today?
FIFTH&BRANNAN:
Lately it’s been gorgeous, surprisingly, considering that this is Fog City.
MTM:
Where did your interest in menswear begin?
5&B:
I have always felt like menswear is forgotten. There is so much emphasis on women’s clothing that menswear is always pushed to the bottom. My real passion developed when I studied in Europe and went to visit the showroom of Gaspard Yurkievich in Paris. I was so inspired by what I saw, the designers I met, and the sophistication of menswear. From that moment, I never looked back.
MTM:
I’ve noticed that you work for J Crew. Can you tell us a little bit about what you do there and how their clothing has had an impact on your design?
5&B:
I have been with J. Crew for two years. I started working for them when I was in college. Once I started my career as a designer, I decided to keep my job at J. Crew because it’s such a friendly environment and I learn so much as a designer, but from a different perspective. I get to interact with customers, see how things fit, and listen to their suggestions.
My favorite thing to do at J. Crew is fit customers for alterations. Surprisingly, many people don’t know about tailoring and the world of difference it makes. Each person is different and not everyone has a body made for off-the-rack clothing. I educate my clients on the proper fit and they leave happier and more confident in their purchase.
Though I love J. Crew’s menswear, the main inspiration I draw from them is their look of sophistication. Fifth&Brannan offers the more formal shirts and modern silhouettes that J. Crew can sometimes lack.
MTM:
Where else do you pull inspiration from?
5&B:
I pull inspiration from practically everywhere and am greatly influenced by my city, the San Franciscan streets, its buildings and colors, and the metropolitan lifestyle in general. Interestingly enough, I’m most inspired on my daily walks, when I get to see countless examples of poor fashion choices. :] When I see someone wearing a disastrous outfit, I get excited to design great pieces, hoping that man will someday graduate to a better wardrobe.
MTM:
On occasion I will post entries entitled “Menswear Cinema” that showcase classic and current films with impeccable men’s clothing and tailoring. Can you name a few films that have inspired you through the years? If not, can you name any actors who you think really “get it”?
5&B:
The first film that comes to mind is Casino with Robert DeNiro and Joe Pesci. I remember watching Casino years ago and loving the men’s style… the way they paired tones, the extreme “anti-spread” collars that covered their tie knots, the proportions of their lapels. Admittedly the clothing is entirely different from mine, but I still appreciate their style.
MTM:
What is it like to create a line from scratch?
5&B:
I have never had so much fun before. Designing a line is not as easy as most people think; there are so many different elements that go into this process. Although going to school for design did prepare me for the industry, there is nothing like experiencing it firsthand. As you will see at fifthandbrannan.com, I post about dealing with fabric jobbers, mills, pattern makers, fit models, sample sewers, and much more. All of these require a great deal of my time but it’s all worth it considering everything I’m learning.
The great thing about creating Fifth&Brannan is that I have no one to answer to but myself. I currently am designing for a big corporation as well, and there isn’t much room for creativity. With Fifth&Brannan, I can do whatever I want! I am so lucky to have my boyfriend Barron by my side. He is very supportive and motivating. We work really well together and are constantly bouncing ideas off one another. I respect his opinion and I am always open to his suggestions; he never steers me wrong.
MTM:
Do you have any favorite aspects of designing?
5&B:
My favorite aspects of designing are choosing the fabrics, creating details that make a piece unique, and seeing the final product come together. That’s when you know all the hard work has paid off.
MTM:
Least favorite aspects?
5&B:
Pattern making, hands down.
MTM:
What can we expect from Fifth&Brannan?
5&B:
Fifth&Brannan’s client is the sophisticated man who expects a quality fit and feel, as well as appreciates the little details in his clothing, details that only he may notice. You can expect unique patterns, sophisticated styling with tailored silhouettes, and special finishes, while still staying true to that classic American look and feel.
MTM:
Will all of your pieces be ready to wear or will you have custom options as well?
5&B:
That isn’t entirely decided. For now, all will be ready-to-wear. I’m targeting a customer who enjoys the convenience of purchasing a well-made piece and having it available immediately. That is why I am so focused on the fit of my garment.
MTM:
Where did the idea come from to document the birth and execution of your line through a blog? It’s very rare to see someone letting us all in from the ground up.
5&B:
It never occurred to me how rare it was to see something like this. Ever since I can remember, I was always curious about how clothes were made. As I got older, I took a great interest in learning about where my clothes came from, how they were made, why they were so expensive, etc. Once I studied design, I was blown away by everything that goes into creating a line. Even after studying this in school, nothing could’ve prepared me for what I actually face when dealing with vendors, sourcing fabric, and making sure I receive a top quality finished product.
I have had to learn everything on my own and I still have a lot of learning to do. I am just happy to share this process with my readers so when my line comes out, people will know what went into each garment. They will know that it wasn’t just some idea an entrepreneur had to make a lot of money. There is not one item in my line that will be mass-produced. All pieces are done in small quantities and all are handmade. I inspect and package every item myself. I hope that with this blog, people will appreciate the garment a little more and feel like they know the brand personally. I am a very approachable girl and would love to answer any questions.
MTM:
When I visit San Francisco I see it is such a hub for colors, especially in the architecture. Has this inspired some of the color choices for your fabrics?
5&B:
How often do you visit San Francisco? San Francisco most definitely inspires my color choices, but I am an East Coast girl at heart. I like to think of my clothing as East Coast sophistication with San Franciscan influences. I am very inspired by the history, traditional style, and trim silhouettes of the old Ivy League, but am drawn to the boldness of San Francisco style.
MTM:
Are there any areas in particular that you frequent to sit and think about what you want to design?
5&B:
I tend to think about what I would like to design in the most common places: on my way to and from work, walking along the Embarcadero, going out to eat, and visiting unique (very San Franciscan) neighborhoods. As I walk through the city I see people that inspire me to design great pieces and then I see people who I just want to help. They open my eyes to the lack of good men’s fashion and the lack of knowledge men have about dressing themselves properly.
MTM:
What is the first item of clothing a woman notices on a man?
5&B:
Pants? I first look at the pants, shoes, then the shirt. The pants cannot be bootcut, too skinny, or too baggy. The shoes absolutely cannot be square toed, and the shirt must fit properly and have a nice, up-to-date collar.
MTM:
Do you own any pets?
5&B:
I live with a cat named Thurston, and a dog named Oxford. Oxford is actually Barron’s dog, and no, we didn’t plan to name our animals after old English men.
MTM:
Coffee or Tea?
5&B:
Hard choice, but for the moment it’s tea. Green tea and English Breakfast black tea.
MTM:
Finally, I want to thank you for letting my readers in on what you are up to. I’m personally looking very forward to see what you come up with.
5&B:
Thanks so much! As always, you can see what we’re up to by visiting us at http://fifthandbrannan.com.
