My Thoughts On The Pocket Square
Lately I have been debating the argument over stitched versus hand rolled pocket squares and have decided that you can, in fact, let each inhabit your wardrobe.
The hand rolled pocket square is a more elegant choice than it’s stitched alternative. Are they superior? Yes. Why? Because the edges create more dimension and depth while sometimes offering lovely contrasting colors that make the piece more interesting as it bulges out of your pocket. There is a certain unstudied look lending to a more playful style. They also create a better, more substantial fold when made out of silk. You can find these made from linen and cotton as well but I prefer the silk versions of the hand rolled square.

Alan Flusser Hand Rolled Pocket Square
I was under the impression that these little beauties were only for the well off but was pleasantly surprised to find some inexpensive alternatives online and in outlets. Fielene’s Basement and Century 21 here in New York City both offer a nice array of hand rolled squares in many color and weight options for about $10 a piece. On a really good day I’ve heard you can even score them for less.
$10 still too expensive for you? Ok, tightwad, The Tie Bar offers a plethora of silk/cotton solids and patterns starting at $5 with the most expensive piece at $8.
For the less thrifty there are some really beautiful pieces over at The Fine And Dandy Shop starting at $19.
With these options, I urge you to try out the silk hand rolled square. They really are something special.
But what of the lone stitched square that I’ve been sporting for the last few years before ungraciously defecting to the other side? Fact is they are still with me and I still wear them. Sure they don’t have the punch and quality of hand rolled but I’ll be damned if I throw away my old pieces. I guess because I love how flat these guys get. Take, for example, a Don Draper type look. It has to be crisp, clean, and with no frills. That’s where my lovely white pocket squares come in. I iron and fold them so tight you can slice a steak with the edges.
Bear in mind, you can still manipulate a hand rolled square to be just as tight but why would you want to have those lovely edges hidden?







how do they actually “roll” the edges?
thanks,
dano
Dano,
The edges are carefully rolled twice by hand then stitched into place.
Best,
Dennis
Ok, I have a questions.
I always thought the pocket square was for more formal settings. Suit and tie type of function or strict office attire. My office is business very casual. You will be hard pressed to find a pair of ironed khakis in some corner of the office. But due to a strange twist of fait and my own stubbornness, I still wear suits, provided it isn’t 85% humidity in NYC…humidity and subways is not a good look in a suit.
Anyway, is the pocket square acceptable with a suit and no tie?
Thanks
Oliver,
Why the pocket square has become unfavorable to some in the business world is a mystery to me. You may see some older gents on the NYC streets wearing and feel they are antiquated but they certainly are not. To me, it’s a necessity when pulling together the entire suit formal occasion or not. There are two ways to wear it as I explained in the post. One conservative and the other more dandyesque.
If there is any situation to wear a pocket square it is when you are without a tie because it substitutes for the lack of neck wear as well as adding a separate pattern so your ensemble doesn’t look flat. If you are wearing one without a tie, make sure it is silk and casually placed. I guarantee people will compliment you.
I hope this answers your question.
My best,
Dennis
Thanks for the info.
When you get a chance, could you post a few picks of the casually placed Pocket Square in action? After a day of it bouncing around in the back of my mind, I like the idea of a pocket square but prefer the casual look to the formal one i am familiar with.
Thanks
Hey Dennis,
The flat, linen pocket squares are something I can handle easily, but I’d like to step up my game and start wearing silk pocket squares.
Can you advise me on how to get that “dandyesque” look you’re able to pull off effortlessly with your silk pocket squares; I’ve tried folding them similar to your’s but mine never turn out quite right. Are there any websites that demonstrate how to do that? I guess I could just google, huh?
Thanks,
Tarun
I love pocket squares! I’m a medical school student who prefers to forego the traditional White Coat in favor of a blazer or tweed jacket. A pocket square sets the perfect accent on the overall look.
I would love to hear more thoughts on this accessory, perhaps in another article? Figuring out how best to fold the square based on your objectives is one area that I would appreciate advice!
Hay all,
Since there are more than a few questions I’ve decided to do a follow up post on Monday in order to cover them all.
Thanks again for the support! You guys are awesome.
-Dennis